Remember light(ish) reds? Probably not if you came to wine in the last five years or so but take my word for it that there was once an era when red wine did not have to be massively high in alcohol or deep in colour. Red Loires and Beaujolais were once seen as perfectly respectable red wines even though the wines were notably higher in acidity than most of the most lauded reds today. (I am discounting here the annual nod to G Duboeuf that can be found in The Wine Advocate.)
Well I think it is high time we rediscovered top quality red wines that are deliciously refreshing – particularly when temperatures are high. The highly reputable Beaune house Louis Jadot, in conjunction with family outfit Loron of Beaujolais, has taken a major punt on unfashionable Beaujolais with delicious results and deserves a bit of a pat on the back for this brave move. They were the first major house to build a new vendangeoir in the sprawling Beaujolais-Villages region (they have since been joined by Duboeuf and the much smaller Piron outfit in Morgon got there first). They elected to buy not juice as is the Beaujolais norm but grapes – thereby having to pay much higher prices. About 40 per cent of the wine that goes into this blend, labelled Combe aux Jacques, is from bought-in grapes. About 30 per cent is declassified cru Beaujolais from the village of Regnié.
The 2003 vintage was as exceptional in beleaguered Beaujolais as everywhere else. No problem of ripeness last year! The total volume produced was reduced by frost, hail drought and heatwave. There are many exciting 2003 Beaujolais around and prices are pretty good since the region is still in economic crisis. This particular wine is very substantial in the mouth with a certain earthiness and lots of acid. It tastes like classic Beaujolais but it very far from thin. Satisfying stuff for drinking any time in 2004 – slightly chilled on a picnic for instance.
My tip for keeping this bottle cool on an expedition: chill it well down in the refrigerator and then before setting off wrap it up in damp newspaper, or one of those chilling jackets kept in the deep freeze.
In the UK this wine costs £6.99 at Asda, Tesco, Safeway and Waitrose as well as a wide range of independent retailers such as Peckhams, Luvians, Wimbledon Wine, Dallas Liquor Mart, D Byrne, Vicki's of Chobham, Fareham Wine Cellars, www.wills-burgundy.co.uk and www.everywine.co.uk. If you can't find this particular fine combination of vintage and region, try others (though note that Fleurie is in very short supply and therefore generally overpriced). www.winesearcher.com.