The relatively cloudy summer and late ripening season of 2004 suited Bordeaux’s dry white wines, the best of which are packed with flavour, some like Pavillon Blanc packed with alcohol too, yet have lovely fresh, racy acidity. All the Graves and Pessac-Léognans were tasted blind in conditions of perfect silence (apart from the click of journalist fingertip on keyboard) except for Haut-Brion Blanc and Ch Laville Haut-Brion. As you can see, I was very impressed by de Fieuzal and La Louvière, white wine stalwarts in this part of the world, and by Bernard Magrez’s Ch Pape Clément. Wines are listed...