This range of 2004 sweet wines was extremely varied, much more varied than in the ‘fat’ year of 2003 or the glorious 2001 and pretty consistent 2002 vintages. There were some easy, bumptious wines for early drinking while others were much more obviously infected with a good degree of botrytis and will be long-livers. Others again were notable for their liveliness and citrus tang. All except Yquem and Climens’ ingredients were tasted blind, which resulted in some surprises. Chx Caillou and de Malle excelling themselves and Rieussec and de Fargues being a little disappointing on the basis of these samples....