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California – Cabernet and beyond

Owl box in Napa Valley vineyard just north of St Helena

The youngest Master of Wine assesses some California wines deemed respectively 'collectable' and 'covetable' in London, in less than perfect circumstances. See also Elaine's two-part survey of California's new ways with the Mission grape published on Monday and Tuesday.

California’s golden beaches, rolling waves, glamorous film studios, clear blue skies and rugged countryside seemed a world away on a drizzly morning in Vauxhall, south London. But, as I entered the striking new US Embassy, I found myself surrounded by something else that is quintessentially Californian – premium wine. This was the chosen location to showcase bottles described respectively as Covetable...