Maybe my frame of reference has changed. Ten years ago I might have been seen with a furrowed brow at a tasting put on by UK importer Les Caves de Pyrène, one of the pioneers of natural wine in the UK, but the tasting I report on here was puzzling only in the frustrating lack of information on appellations or grape varieties on the tasting list, and that was only partly because of the proliferation of what Jancis has called Wilderness wines.
Curiosity has always been a part of my approach to tasting – and drinking – wine, accentuated...