As Domaine de l'Hortus has proved, this rocky high point on the Languedoc landscape is very good at making fine, full-bodied white wine. André Leenhardt is of Belgian origin but is now president of the growers of Pic St Loup, a name that can provide a pretty reliable shortcut to quality of both red and white wines in the vast Languedoc.
This stylishly labelled bottle contains wine with real character and lovely texture. Roussanne with its greengage (reine claude) fruit and vibrant acidity plays the dominant role but Grenache Blanc and Viognier add ballast, heady perfume and a certain honeyed quality. There's also a hint of undergrowth – in short, no shortage of interest. This terroir-driven wine at 14 per cent is no aperitif but a thoroughly satisfying wine to drink with food – arguably more summery than a white burgundy from the Côte d'Or (which would cost considerably more but with which it can reasonably be compared). This would make a great bottle to share with friends and a Mediterranean salad – but drink it over the next few months rather than years.
Château de Cazeneuve is at 34270 Lauret, France (tel +33 (0)4 67 59 07 49, fax +33 (0)4 67 59 06 91)
Importers include
UK – Jeroboams stores around London £10.75
Germany – Niederreuther of Munich
Austria – Heinz Schelling of Bregenz
Canada – Société des Alcools du Québec
Japan – Marutaka of Tokyo, Winterose of Tokyo
