With the precision of a Swiss clock, each February the Consorzio of Chianti Classico presents in Florence the new vintages of Chianti Classico, Riserva and, since last year, the new but unconvincing Gran Selezione category. The number of wines available at the tasting this year, some 517 from 149 different producers, was overwhelming, yet represented a mere quarter of the Consorzio’s 600 members.
Although these monster tastings allow for an in-depth assessment of the latest vintages (at least that is how I approach them), they have begun to attract criticism, notably from Attilio Scienza, professor of viticulture at the University...