Dirty and Rowdy is the memorable name of one of northern California's new-wave wine producers. It could also serve as a suitable name for the tasting I went to in September in the Vinyl Factory in London's Soho. It was organised by a group of 12 delightfully independent importers of wine into the UK: Astrum, Clark Foyster, Flint, Forty Five 10, H2Vin, Indigo, Maltby & Greek, Raymond Reynolds, Roberson, SWIG, Top Selection and Wine Treasury. They call themselves the Dirty Dozen, and the bare concrete walls and low ceiling of the basement of the Vinyl Factory record shop certainly encouraged...