One of the finest Australian Pinots I ever had (and no, that is not faint praise) was Coldstream Hills Reserve Pinot Noir 1992, served by Len Evans at a dinner at his home in the Hunter Valley the night before he died in 2006. Coldstream Hills was established in the Yarra Valley outside Melbourne by Australia's most famous wine writer James Halliday and his wife Suzanne in 1985. For Halliday, who had been a lawyer in Sydney, founding Brokenwood in the Hunter Valley at weekends, very much part of the Evans-dominated New South Wales wine scene, this was a massive...