While in Australia last month for the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, I had a chance to catch up with one of my favourite Victorian wine producers, Phillip Moraghan of Curly Flat in the Macedon Ranges. The image on the left shows Curly Flat's first releases, from the 1998 vintage, retasted in a major vertical last November and still apparently in good condition.
As I explained in my last, 2009 collection of Curly Flat tasting notes, I froze when I visited this immaculate but windy, high-altitude property north-north-west of Melbourne (see this map). Phillip reminded me that on...