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Don Melchor complete vertical

Enrique Tirado with Don Melchor vertical in London, October 2019

A look at the admirably low-key evolution of Concha y Toro's flagship red, way back to the beginning.

In New York recently I was thrilled to sense that Chilean wine seems to have gained some respectability there, after long years of having been seen as quintessentially cheap and cheerful. But the wines that my fellow wine geeks seemed most thrilled about were the new-wave, old-vine wines from southern Chile such as País from Itata and Carignan or Cinsault from Maule. I do hope they do not ignore a classic Chilean Cabernet that has much more grace, and a much more...