‘Next to nothing’, replied Alec Seysses when I asked him if much has changed during the years covered by this vertical tasting of their Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Aux Malconsorts in London last week.
The only small more recent change, shorter term perhaps than the gradual impact of first organic and now biodynamic farming, was the reduction in the number of pump-overs in favour of punching down in 2015 and 2016 because the tannins were ‘coming out by themselves’. Alec explained this as more of a response to the vintage than any change in overall winemaking approach. In 2015 and 2016...