Fifty good to very good Portuguese table wines

What stands out in this collection of 50 great Portuguese table wines chosen by my UK wine writer colleague Simon Woods is the producers’ faithfulness to their indigenous varieties – and that’s what made the tasting so enjoyable, and enticed me there in the first place. (I’ve indicated the varieties where possible.)

An essay question set for MW students at a recent seminar asked this question: Can indigenous varieties offer a competitive advantage over the classic varieties? However you choose to answer this (probably, possibly, depends … all good fence positions), these wines offered an array of flavours that...