Beaujolais' famous grape finds a new home in Australia's cooler quarters. Above, a Gamay block at Lyons Will Estate in midwinter.
Of all the things the late Len Evans will be remembered for – and there are many things – being the godfather of Gamay in Australia is not the first thing that springs to mind.
Australia's most famous wine man, who died in 2006, was renowned for his love of grand cru burgundy and venerable old Australian wines – not so much for a love of beaujolais. But, when he planted his own vineyard in the mid 1970s, in...