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Grosses Gewächs releases 2023, part 1 – Riesling

Glasses lined up ready for a taster at the August 2023 Weisbaden GG tastings copyright Franzistegemann

Riesling, Riesling everywhere … but especially in Wiesbaden at last month’s annual VDP GG premiere. Come back tomorrow to read about Pinots and other non-Riesling wines, too. And see also Jancis's account of GGs shown in London this month. Photo above by Franzi Stegemann.

Speculation on Germany’s 2022 GGs coming into this year’s VDP premiere skewed toward congratulatory: the heat of 2018, the power of 2003. Some naysayers muttered under their breath: or 2011 or 2014. In the end, however, comparing vintages is a fool’s errand. Not only because the weather is, well, the weather, but also because the...