Those with long memories may remember this story of Arnaud Christiaens, who is trying to beat the Bordeaux system by making wines from unsung plots of land that can stand comparison with the first growths but cost ‘only’ half as much. He sells the wines in 48-bottle lots direct to his contacts ‘by invitation’ and, admirably, only when they are approaching drinkability. The lovely Gérard Basset OBE MW MS is an advisor.
Back in 2013 I had been impressed by several of the four 2009s he produced when I tasted them blind with four 2006 first growths, though was much...