How California wines have changed

See California Wine Summit – a guide.

Call me a Luddite but I couldn't agree more with Jerry Seps, who described himself as owner, CEO and tractor driver of Storybook Mountain, that the style of his 1991 vintage was more attractive than that of the 2009. He admitted that if it were up to him, and not to what the market expects, he would have stuck to the earlier style, which meant picking earlier and using less new oak. But he believes that consumers today still generally appreciate riper wines that can be drunk younger.

However, this tasting dinner...