Every year the en primeur tasting organised by Assovini Sicilia demands of the attendees a certain strategic approach. Last year, for example, my fellow tasters and I tried to tackle as many of the 200 wines on show as possible in a race against time. The tasting started two hours later than indicated and although the next day a second morning’s tasting was scheduled, this in fact proved to be no more than an hour before we had to leave to join the final day’s press conference.
This year the programme showed that only one day was reserved for the...