In his article yesterday, Walter bemoaned the demise of the annual tasting known as the Definitive Italian, one that became less and less definitive. I recently attended its successor, a much livelier, edgier event called Il Collettivo. It was designed to showcase the Italian wines of importers Flint, FortyFive10, SWIG and Sommelier's Choice and was attended by 32 Italian winemakers. (Flint Wines, the animus behind the recent Burgundy Week, seems to be particularly proactive at the moment.)
Held in a blindingly white photographer's studio in trendy King's Cross, it offered a total of almost 200 wines –...