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Increasing refinement from...Australia

It is fashionable to decry Australian wine at the moment. In Britain its reputation has suffered from its being so closely linked to big brands and supermarket promotions while in the US I sense a disaffection among many wine lovers with the massively alcoholic South Australian reds that have spearheaded Australian wine’s reputation there.
 
As usual, I’d like to present a contrary view. Even though I have absolutely no axe to grind either pro or anti Australia, I have long pointed out how many interesting, ambitious small wine producers there are in Australia (and virtually every country in fact)...