After 11 hours of non-stop wine tasting, including one long lunch, it seems impossible to contemplate dinner. Wine writers Christina Pickard (not much bigger than a Roxanich magnum herself) and Tara O'Leary (long and lean) look at me in wild-eyed panic. Not more food, surely? Not more wine. But we've arrived at Batelina in Pula, the fish restaurant owned by David Skoko. One sniff of that sizzling grill and we adjust our belts and get back into the game.
It's an unprepossessing restaurant. No fancy reception. We squeeze down a short, narrow passage between two tiny kitchens where (I later...