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The London fine-wine merchant armit (lower case letters being their idea) recently held an Italian tasting which featured some of Italy's top names. But it proved an eclectic mix of producers, regions and grapes, from a £6 Puglian Bombino 2009 (pictured is the producer, Gianni Cantele, who is doing some lovely things in his region) to the £176 Sassicaia 1998.

Wines are grouped by producer. They are listed in the order tasted, which was the order in which they were presented as I had just rushed over from a tasting on the opposite side of London, leaving no time to...