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Jacob's Creek – revealing verticals

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As highlighted in my recent blind tasting of 50 Chardonnays from around the world, Jacob's Creek versions are a lot better than you might think (well, I was surprised, anyway). But the day before I had had a hint of this when I spent a couple of hours tasting several JC verticals with the man responsible for them, the very senior winemaker Phil Laffer, who joined Orlando way back in 1990, having previously been responsible for the great wines that Lindemans used to make in the Hunter Valley.

You can see from the notes below that the latest vintages...