Our first-ever Sherry Night last Sunday featured 38 wines, including some with the words ‘en rama’ on the label and some that their producers would describe as 'en rama' even though they did not say so on the label. The term is not legally defined, despite the Consejo’s best efforts to persuade producers that it would be a good idea to do so. The simplest explanation is that these wines have little or no filtration, fining or cold stabilisation and are intended to taste as they would if you had just drawn a sample from the sherry butt. However, as...