How Burgundy informed northern California.
Ted Lemon of Littorai in California’s now-fashionable Sonoma Coast is a hero to many a wine lover. His Pinots, whether from Littorai or Burn Cottage in Central Otago, with which he has been closely associated, stand out head and shoulders above the rest – and have exhibited refinement forever, long before the current vogue for same. Although Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat worked in Burgundy quite early on, Lemon was the first American hired to manage a property on the Côte d'Or, so arguably represents the first major bridge between the west coast and...