A love of wine can easily lead to obsession, but I have never seen it embodied in such a quirky way as in the case of Ognostro. It consists of a tiny vineyard in the village of Montemarano, high up in the Campanian denomination of Taurasi, where one of Italy’s most interesting reds is being produced, whose grapes are fermented and aged in Sicily, all of this masterminded and managed in Milan in the north of Italy.
I visited Ognostro’s wine-obsessed owner, 40-year-old Marco Tinessa, not in Campania or Sicily but at his home in Milan, because it is here...