Yesterday I tasted my first example of the new mongrel Vin de Pays, a Vin de Pays des Vignobles de France, a Vin de Pays that can be made up of ingredients grown in any French wine region. Kiwi Cuvée 2006 Vin de Pays des Vignobles de France is a bit of mongrel wine: made entirely from grapes grown in Corsica apparently, a brand owned by the Loire wine company Lacheteau selling, much to the annoyance of New Zealanders, on the back of the New Zealanders’ reputation as makers of friendly Sauvignon Blanc (from the Loire) and, now, Pinot Noir...