I am late. Actually, I am terribly late. On my way to Azienda Palari, owned by architect Salvatore Geraci and his brother Giampaolo, the estate's agronomist, and hidden somewhere in the hills of Messina, on Sicily's extreme east coast, I think of apologies, and later hear myself meekly blame the GPS, which was unable to locate Santo Stefano di Briga. But Signor Geraci doesn't want to let me off the hook that easily. In a kind of 'I told you so' manner he rebukes me, saying I should have agreed to meet him at the autostrada exit close to Messina...