Penfolds' puff

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It was the ampoule that really finished me off. I've always felt rather ambivalent about Penfolds' marketing – on the one hand admiring the slick performance, with regular and very personable global appearances by chief winemaker and brand ambassador Peter Gago, and efficient provision of information in thick-paged tasting booklets and on their website, but on the other hand finding it just too much. Just too much puff and theatre. And the ampoule tipped me over the edge.

There were no ampoules in sight at the preview tasting in London this week of this year's new releases (on the...