We continue our week devoted to Pinot Noir with an Australian specialist in this capricious variety, Nick Farr of Geelong, son of Gary Farr who initially made wine at nearby Bannockburn. There is no doubt that Geelong, a vastly capacious zone on the cool Victorian coast, can provide fine conditions for growing Pinot Noir – as witness these wines, those of Bannockburn and not forgetting the particularly idiosyncratic Pinots of Bass Phillip many miles to the east. When I was in Melbourne in March I heard how difficult it was to get Bass Phillip to issue invoices – not a...