Let’s turn our backs on Bordeaux this week, shall we? The 2005 Bordeaux primeurs campaign is progressing – did I say progressing? – painfully slowly. It’s as though the big Bordeaux cat has been throwing out little crumbs for the merchant mice to nibble on and is languorously taking its time over when to set the real slice of cheddar in front of them and watch them, and us, fight over those glamorous classed growths. Yawn, yawn. Let’s look to another country entirely for something we can really enjoy.
Poggerino is...