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Portuguese white wines on a roll

Quinta do Cordo

Another wallow in Portuguese wines. This time, following on from Portuguese reds on a roll, the focus is on the many whites and a few sparkling and pink wines tasted over the last several months. Above, Quinta do Cardo's high-elevation vineyards in the Castelo Rodrigo subregion of Beira Interior, eastern Portugal.

This heterogeneous collection includes wines from just about every region of Portugal and styles ranging from complex, tannic, low-alcohol skin-fermented whites such as Chocapalha’s Arinto Antigo, a new wine from old vines, to pure racy whites such as those made by Quinta do Cardo at a cool 750...