After several years of too much oak, overt buttery character and weak acidity – downright flabby wines – California Chardonnay seems to be sorting itself out. Current releases generally show more pure fruit and acidity, less charry toast, and better balance, particularly at the higher end.
Although the pendulum has swung for many Chardonnay producers, David Ramey hasn’t made many adjustments. For years, he’s held to a style that is very California, with sunny, ripe fruit and lusciousness, yet also mimics Europe, with elegance, minerality and crunchy acidity.
Ramey’s Chardonnays unabashedly have alcohol levels around 14.5% – no...