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Samuel Billaud's 2022 Chablis

Samuel Billaud

An early look at the 2022 wines from this young Chablis house. Above, Samuel Billaud.

After the frosts of 2021, the warm and sunny 2022 vintage came as a relief to Chablis’ winegrowers. As Matthew Hayes wrote when he visited the region last November, just after the harvest, there was ‘evident satisfaction of a large and high-quality 2022 vintage’.

Samuel Billaud was in London in July to show off his 2022s, finely etched and precise as always, with pure citrus fruit and a notable textural quality that adds depth to mouth-watering freshness. He was clearly happy with the sunny, healthy...