Yesterday I wrote about the general situation for Sicilian wine. My somewhat revolutionary thoughts were provoked by this year’s en primeur tasting organised in April by the producers' association, Assovini, in a format which, incidentally, is rapidly losing its relevance even if an alternative for the endless vintage presentations each year in Italy has yet to be formulated. Etna proved to be still everybody’s darling with many journalists clinging to a glass of either its red or white during dinner. It is perhaps the most evocative of all Sicilian DOCs, not least due to very distinct local varieties, Nerello...