We go back in time via a vertical from one of Montalcino's longer-established producers.
This was a fascinating tasting, tracing the evolution of the style of Tuscany's most famous wine. The oldest examples, handpicked presumably, showed the delicacy that Sangiovese can exhibit when grown well inland and at a fair elevation. Then came the one and only wine from the 1990s when Montalcino producers were far from immune from the prevailing international love affair with deep colour, alcohol, intensity, sweetness and international grape varieties (see our various articles tagged Brunellogate). This was the least obviously Tuscan of the dozen wines...