Tasting the Bordeaux primeurs is a bit like a jigsaw puzzle. If you aim to be at all comprehensive, as I do, you have to deploy a certain amount of cunning, as well as an intricate set of appointments at those châteaux which choose not to show their wines in the tastings organised by the Union des Grands Crus to ensure that you manage to taste all the significant wines in any given vintage.
My policy is to taste as much as possible blind because it can be so usefully revealing, so this means going to all the UGC...