One of the greatest problems for a professional wine-taster is remembering tastes from one occasion to another. It's relatively easy to work out from among a line-up of glasses in front of you which is the best-made, which you like best and so on. More difficult is to travel from cellar to cellar, holding in your memory, say, one producer's Meursault from yesterday as against another's. And more difficult still is to sort back through the memory bank to recall accurately Meursaults tasted a year or several years previously.
For that reason I was delighted the other day to have...