28 Nov 2011
The morning of 20 gintonics
![Image](/jancis-public/styles/article_xs_x1/public/legacy/images/articles/b4815081208aa79e2c394bc0d7f2f706d.jpg)
By 1 pm on the first day of San Sebastian Gastronomika, one of the most enthusiastically attended of all the world's growing number of gastronomic conferences, I had smelt, studied and tasted more gin and tonics than I have drunk in the last 17 years.
I can say this with impunity as the arithmetic is simple. I enjoy one gin and tonic a year and by the end of this particular morning I had pronounced on 18, in differing glasses, of different colours and mixed with very differing fruits and spices. And that was before we sat down at 4.30...