Image
Richard Hemming MW headshot
Jancis Robinson
&
Richard Hemming MW
26 Apr 2012
Tasting articles

The Wine Society's new finds

Tasting articles
Image

The Wine Society continues to work hard to provide reliable and stimulating bottles for its members – who have to buy a single £40 share in this historic British wine-buying cooperative.

Because this collection of new wines is such a ragbag, we have decided to group the tasting notes by style or colour, then in order of descending score. You can see that both Richard, who tasted most of the reds and the handful of sweet wines, and I found many wines we thought were good value (GV) or even very, very good value (VVGV).

SPARKLING


WHITES

Huet, Le Haut-Lieu Sec 2010 Vouvray

Deeper flavoured than the Chenin des Rouillères 2011. With more honey and more wet wool. Lots to get your teeth into but awfully young for the moment. (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2014
–
2018
£14.95 The Wine Society
16 +

Tahbilk Viognier 2011 Nagambie Lakes

Light nose. Although this wine is certainly fresh, I can’t really see much varietal character. A bit metallic, and chewy, on the finish. (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2013
£9.95 The Wine Society
14.5

Hunter's Riesling 2010 Marlborough

This has certainly aged quite rapidly on the nose and actually reminds me more of an Eden Valley than a Clare Valley Riesling. Bone-dry finish. A little chewy but GV for accelerated ageing. (JR) 13%
Drink
2012
–
2013
£10.95 The Wine Society
16

Vols, Wiltinger Riesling 2009 Saar

Light but, like the Ignacio Riesling, sweeter than it need be. I’d rather have a lighter sweet wine or a dry one if it is to have this amount of body. (JR)

10%
Drink
2013
–
2015
£14.95 The Wine Society
15.5

Concha y Toro, Corte Ignacio Riesling 2010 Casablanca

Smells just like a Clare Valley Riesling! Though on the palate it is unexpectedly, and rather unnecessarily, sweet. I find it a bit unbalanced. And a tad astringent. (JR) 12%
Drink
2012
–
2015
£8.25 The Wine Society
15

Jordan, Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2011 Stellenbosch

Very lively and flirtatious. More transparent and racy than many South African Chenins. Although there is some light green apple and honey flavour, there is no sweetness. Real grip on the palate. GV (JR) 14%
Drink
2012
–
2016
£8.75 The Wine Society
16.5

Prince Știrbey, Tămâioasă Românească Sec 2010 Romania

Very fruity and fragrant and clean and precise on the nose. On the palate it’s pretty light and finishes dry. Lots of fun and stimulating for those who are tired of the familiar in their wine glass. Very clean and well made. Fair value. (JR) 13%
Drink
2012
–
2014
£9.50 The Wine Society
16.5

Dom des Ardoisières, Argile 2010 IGP Vin des Allobroges

Light, mineral nose. Very firm finish. Should go well with food but it’s a little astringent for easy aperitif drinking. Is it the slate referred to in the name of the producer? (JR) 12%
Drink
2013
–
2014
£11.95 The Wine Society
15.5

Umathum, Beerenauslese 2010 Burgenland

90% Chardonnay, 10% Scheurebe. Candied, marmalade, crystallised ginger. Thick and yet kept vibrant by good acid. Very sweet, but not massively complex. If only it were Riesling! (RH) 11.5%
Drink
2012
–
2015
£13.95 (50cl) The Wine Society
16

Elio Perrone 2011 Moscato d'Asti

Luscious but balanced with a slightly soapy tropical fruit. Brilliantly fine mousse. Not at all cloying. Deliciously creamy. This is why there's a fuss about Moscato. GV (RH) 5%
Drink
2012
–
2013
£6.75 The Wine Society
16.5

ROSÉS

Vicente Malumbres, Rosado 2011 Navarra

Lots of generous fruit on the nose. Relatively low acidity but not manipulated and full of charm. Needs to be drunk young and cool. GV (JR) 13.5%
Drink
2012
£5.95 The Wine Society
16

REDS

Prince Știrbey, Novac Sec 2009 Romania

Rather round and very textured. Clean and well made. Mineral finish. Real zip to this – unlike anything else I have tasted. Good old Prince Stirbey might just reignite Romania wine’s reputation. Finish is a bit sudden but it’s certainly novel! (JR) 14%
Drink
2011
–
2013
£13.95 The Wine Society
16

J Mourat, Collection 2010 Fiefs Vendéens, Mareuil

Very unusual stumpy flask-like bottle. Racy and bone dry on, according to the back label, volcanic rhyolite soils. Bags of character. Dry finish. Great balance and interest. Just the sort of wine the Wine Society does so well. Long. Uncompromising in its dryness. Don’t serve too cool – nor too warm! (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2012
–
2014
£7.50 The Wine Society
16

Robert Sérol, Vieilles Vignes 2011 Côte Roannaise

Lively and lifted. Rather stylish label. Light but true and savoury. Quintessential French country wine made with great facility. Silky texture, great persistence. Troisgros house wine by the way. VGV (JR) 12%
Drink
2012
–
2013
£7.95 The Wine Society
16.5

d'Arenberg, One Hundred For Four 2010 McLaren Vale

Wow, impressive raisined, porty style nose. Lots of minty, medicinal character on the palate, very dry tannins. Dense black fruit. Rather short in the end. But can't complain at that for less than a tenner. (RH) 14%
Drink
2012
–
2016
£7.50 The Wine Society
16

Viña Leyda, Classic Reserve Syrah 2010 Leyda

Pure blackcurrant and strawberry juice aromas. Impressive price for this, because it has such great clarity of fruit. Too juicy for some, I expect, but does it with classiness. Best wine for under £7 I've tasted in ages. VGV (RH) 14%
Drink
2012
–
2016
£6.50 The Wine Society
16.5

De Martino, Viejas Tinajas Cinsault 2011 Itata

Made from unirrigated bush vines and fermented in amphorae. Blackcurrants and mint, but more French than Chilean in its style – clean and fruity but savoury with a dry, restrained and very long finish. (RH) 13%
Drink
2012
–
2016
£8.95 The Wine Society
16.5

Weinert, Carrascal 2007 Mendoza

Ripe, juicy fruit and much cleaner than it used to be – no brett or VA here, no sir. Perhaps just a little bit less characterful therefore? (RH) 14%
Drink
2012
–
2016
£7.50 The Wine Society
16

Ch Prieuré-Lichine 2004 Margaux

Proper black fruit with that mannerly structure of the Médoc and some just-emerging fragrance. Only just opening up now. (RH) 13%
Drink
2012
–
2022
£35 The Wine Society
17

Ch La Haye 2004 St-Estèphe

Soft, reticent red fruit. Soft. Soft, soft, soft. Fine if you like them soft. (RH) 13%
Drink
2008
–
2014
£13.95 The Wine Society
16

Ch Champarel Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Pécharmant

Peculiar aroma – what is that? Liquorice and leather and a bit farmy too. Rustic, and crushingly tannic on the finish, though perfectly drinkable. Not to be drunk without food! (RH) 13%
Drink
2012
–
2016
£10.50 The Wine Society
16.5

Malondro, Latria 2006 Montsant

I notice that I tasted this at Oddbins in Nov 11 – and it seems to have got even better since. Blend of Grenache and Carignan. Apparently, this wine should have been sold under their main 'Malondro' label at twice the price, but a cancelled order meant they deselected it into a second label. Really yummy developed nose with loads of leathery, medicinal, black fruit. Excellent balance. Fully mature, so not for keeping, but not at all elderly either. VVGV. (RH) 13.5%
Drink
2010
–
2013
£7.50 The Wine Society
17

Abadengo, Crianza 2006 Arribes

Soft, mild mannered, quite slight. Nothing wrong with it but unusally boring for the Wine Soc. (RH) 13.5%
Drink
2010
–
2015
£8.95 The Wine Society
15.5

Dom du Cros, Lo Sang del Pais 2011 Marcillac

Made from Fer Servadou. Strident cassis and grassy notes. Firm tannins, high acidity, bright and Beaujolais-esque. Quick to finish, but delivers wonderful savoury French fruit. GV (RH) 12.5%
Drink
2012
–
2015
£7.95 The Wine Society
16.5

Vinkara Kalecik Karası 2009 Turkey

Interesting herbal and beetroot character. Does the trick of being very different without being too weird. Very soft tannins, moderate acidity, long sweetly fruited length. (RH) 13.5%
Drink
2012
–
2016
£9.50 The Wine Society
16.5

Prophet's Rock Pinot Noir 2009 Central Otago

Light, tight, not so hardcore as some Otagans, high acid and just a slight red fruit. Doesn’t seem anywhere near twice as good as the Limari Pinot Noir. (RH) 13.5%
Drink
2012
–
2016
£23.50 The Wine Society
16

Dom Sylvain Pataille 2009 Marsannay

Scented, really rather headily perfumed. Transparent and minerally. Very fine for the money – if you have bought into Marsannay. Classic example for a reasonable price. GV (JR) 12.5%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£14.50 The Wine Society
16.5