Philippe Raoux, the owner of Château d'Arsac in Margaux, and his son Pierre Raoux, currently based in Australia, have created the most unusual set of red bordeaux. Every year since 2005 they invite a high-profile winemaker to create a wine from their vineyard. The wine is not known as Château d'Arsac and carries only the most discreet mention of vintage. The idea is that it is the particular winemaker's expression of the fruit delivered that particular year – they have free rein to choose which parcels and the wine takes the appellation Haut-Médoc to give maximum freedom. Each wine is...