I happen to have tasted four interesting dry white bordeaux recently and feel rather heartened by them. In journalistic terms, perhaps the most interesting wine is the brand-new offering from the man who founded Cloudy Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, David Hohnen of Margaret River, Western Australia. He must be hoping that his debut Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc will have at least a fraction of the success of its New Zealand counterpart all those years ago…
Like Cloudy Bay, it was inspired by a relatively inexpensive local example he tasted sur place, a €7 Bordeaux Blanc, apparently. He was struck by...