Immediately after this London tasting of wines currently available from the admirable Yapp Bros, importers of 'characterful French wines from small independent winemakers', based in the little village of Mere in Wiltshire, south-west England, I jotted down a list of words and phrases that seemed to me to sum up the wines I had tasted: classic, honest, characterful, fun, expressing their origin, fresh, moderate alcohol, the best quintessentially French qualities but none of the worst, tradition for today, well made. If you put those together with the number of times I noted GV for good value or VGV for very good...