Burgundy 2009 A-D

Thursday 27 January 2011
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Our tasting notes are – phew – now just about complete. For a guide to our comprehensive coverage of this exceptional vintage, see Burgundy 2009 – a guide.

DOMAINE STÉPHANE ALADAME

Clear piercing lemon and just a touch salty. Firm, moderately dense, dry and harmonious. (JH)
Drink 2013 – 2016
£204 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
Precision on the nose – which actually came as rather a relief after the softness of a range of Louis Michel’s Chablis. Fresh and refreshing. Light and very pretty but not the sort for an en primeur wine. Hint of nuttiness. (JR)
Drink 2011 – 2013
£105 per case ib OW Loeb
A bit denser but not fresher than the Découverte. (JR)
Drink 2012 – 2015
£120 per case ib OW Loeb

BERTRAND AMBROISE

A little smoky on the nose then rather harsh on the palate. Breadth rather than finesse. (JH)
Drink 2011 – 2012
£150 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
Honeyed quince. A little bit oxidative in style. Heavy on the palate. Lots of flavour but not the flavour I’m looking for. (JH)
Drink 2012 – 2013
£186 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
Sweet cherry compote aroma. Fresh but tannins are rather drying. Cherry fruit struggles to assert itself. (JH)
Drink 2012 – 2016
£348 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
Ripe lemon – lemon linctus. The sample is warm but even so this seems rather lacking in energy. It’s fresh and creamy but a bit coarse. (JH)
Drink 2013 – 2019
£636 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
Screw cap. A bit tarty and chewy and demanding. Hard. (JR)
Drink 2011 – 2013
Imported by Montrachet
Lots of fruit and a certain amount of charm. Racy and lively, and relaxed and flattering. (JR)
Drink 2010 – 2013
Imported by Montrachet
Sweet baked fruit on nose and palate. Sightly fresher on the palate but that cooked side spoils it overall. (JH)
Drink 2013 – 2016
£528 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
Really bretty nose and completely dried out on the palate. (JH)
Drink 0
£570 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet

DOMAINE AMIOT-SERVELLE

Pinkish cherry colour. Dusty, almost leafy note over the red cherry fruit. Sweet oak spice on the mid palate. Fine dry tannins, upright and pretty austere at the moment. (JH)
Drink 2014 – 2021
£432 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
Gentle dark fruit. Quite sweet on the nose. More depth than on the Chambolle, firm, dry and hidden on the palate. (JH)
Drink 2015 – 2022
£612 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet

DOMAINE ARLAUD
Bit simple and dull.

Light crimson. Light, jujube nose. Easy and simple. A bit too light to be of great interest. (JR)
Drink 2012 – 2014
£112 per case ib Flint
Solid and a little rustic on the nose. Light and sweet. Simple. (JR)
Drink 2014 – 2017
£250 per case ib Flint
Quite dark crimson. Round and like a cherry boiled sweet/hard candy. Easy and round but not ultimately that interesting, I’m afraid. (JR)
Drink 2016 – 2021
£210 per case of 6 ib Flint
Much lighter than most Gevreys. Basic fruit. Dry finish. Not quite enough in the middle. (JR)
Drink 2016 – 2023
£220 per case of 6, £230 per 3 magnums ib Flint
Rich, round nose delivers pleasure in spades. By a mile the best wine from this producer I have tasted so far – though pretty sweet and forward. Almost sickly... (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2020
£295 per case of 6, £305 per 3 magnums, £225 per one jeroboam ib Flint

DOMAINE DE L'ARLOT
Worrying – shame because I liked the last guy I met from here (chez Corney & Barrow).

Big and round with lots of impact but the batonnage element seems a little too strong for the price. (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2018
£435 per case ib Goedhuis
Scented. Light and dry and possibly slightly too relaxed? Easy peasy. Slightly drying on the end. (JR)
Drink 2014 – 2018
£180 per case ib Goedhuis
Sweet fruit + sweet oak = not the most convincing Nuits. Who is this aimed at, I wonder? Not the traditional burgundy fan. (JR)
Drink 2014 – 2016
£225 per case ib Goedhuis
Scented. Relatively light and subdued. Then hard work on the finish. Awfully aggressive tannins considering how ripe the fruit should have been..? (JR)
Drink 2016 – 2020
£260 per case ib Goedhuis
Heady and hedonistic (do we need the word hedonistic for wines like this?) Loose and open and beguiling. But not refreshing. The first wine I have come across where I have actively worried about the low acid level. (JR)
Drink 2015 – 2018
£465 per case ib Goedhuis
Quite deep crimson. Smells rather cheesy. Not pure at all! Rustic tannins. Where is all that mellifluous fruit? (JR)
Drink 2016 – 2019
£465 per case ib Goedhuis
Smells of beef extract. Then good fruit on the mid palate. Lively. Much the best of the wines from this address but still a bit aggressively chewy. Not refreshing enough. (JR)
Drink 2015 – 2020
£625 per case ib Goedhuis

DOMAINE ARNOUX-LACHAUD

Fresh and just a little (white) peppery. Gentle, fruity, delicate, but all over rather quickly. (JH)
Drink 2011 – 2012
£140 per case ib Armit
Comfortably relaxed fruity nose. Lots of easy sweetness. Pretty GV (JR)
Drink 2012 – 2015
£70 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
Pretty rich and flashy on the nose. Very sweet start. Rather softer and less convincing than usual at this domaine. Lacks refreshment. Too sweet and soft. (JR)
Drink 2015 – 2019
£360 per case ib Armit; £POA per case ib Lay & Wheeler
Very sweet start – flattering. Falls away a little fast. (JR)
Drink 2015 – 2020
£133 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley; £265 per case ib Armit
Extraordinarily sweet – too jammy. Pastiche style. Very drying end. (JR)
Drink 2016 – 2023
£174 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
Light crimson. Good focus and energy. Some real race and class. Dry finish so still a bit awkward. These three Arnoux-Lachaux wines at Lay & Wheeler I found a little disappointing. (JR)
Drink 2017 – 2023
£285 per case of 6 ib Armit; £POA per case ib Lay & Wheeler
More exciting than the village Chambolle but still it lacks the sheer terroir definition that usually defines this producer. (JR)
Drink 2016 – 2020
£POA per case ib Lay & Wheeler
Quite blueish. Rich and sweet but with less obvious class than some previous vintages. Tough. Needs time. (JR)
Drink 2019 – 2029
£800 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley; £800 per case of 6 ib Armit

DOMAINE DENIS BACHELET
Very solid and lovely – good distinctiveness. A dream year. Age of vines a factor here.

Deep crimson. Savoury and even a little leathery. Quite juicy and very interesting and complex already on the nose. This should make lively bottle! (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Brochon, Queue de Hareng, near Perrières de Fixin. Dark and rich-looking. Substantial stuff – very rich and jolly – quite spicy and round. Lovely stuff that should not be too expensive. Real energy. Perhaps not for the real long term. Very good drainage on this steep plot. GV? (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2018
75 years but being replaced one by one. Mostly in the north of the village. Very dark. Very incense nose with real excitement and density. Very rich and supple and gorgeous. Just lovely – you would never think it was ‘just’ a village wine. Light calcaire pebbly slope – quite like Charmes. To be bottled after full moon in March. Very small bunches. So long and rich. Great reverberant stuff. (JR)
Drink 2016 – 2025
Just next to Mazis and Fonteny. A deep soil with some clay and marl but quite a cool terroir. Especially good in dry years.
Very rich and sumptuous on the nose – all black fruits. Intense and round and less lifted than the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes. Big and bold. Quite a bit of fine tannin on the finish. Best to wait. (JR)
Drink 2018 – 2028
Deep purplish crimson. Lift and playful note on the great big body of mass. Polished and shiny. Lots to enjoy here although it is more ambitious and less superficially charming than many a Charmes. Very well done. Great intensity. On the limit with Mazoyères in very shallow soils quite high up. Very expansive finish. (JR)
Drink 2018 – 2030

DOMAINE JEAN-CLAUDE BACHELET

Sleek and polished. Very fine boned. Chewy end and it’s all tucked in but pretty convincingly. Just a little light on the end. (JR)
Drink 2012 – 2016
£186 per case ib BBR
Quite open and nutty on the nose. Very fresh and racy. Strong lime notes. Lots of immediate appeal but not that much subtlety. (JR)
Drink 2012 – 2015
£312 per case ib BBR
Restrained nose. Quite tight and very well sculpted. Dry finish. Very chewy end. Fine. (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2017
£420 per case ib BBR

DOMAINE BACHELET-MONNOT

Rather basic and ordinary. Very open. (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2016
£150 per case ib Justerini & Brooks
Very racy. Bit of a racehorse. Though without the depth one might expect of a premier cru. (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2017
£470 per case, or £500 per case of 6 magnums ib Justerini & Brooks
Tense and positively juddering elbows. Not the most assured Grand Cru but made with great ambition and intent. Very racy. Lemon oil. (JR)
Drink 2015 – 2022
£1,120 per case, or £1,150 per case of 6 magnums ib Justerini & Brooks

DOMAINE BALLOT-MILLOT

Fresh lime flavours. Sweet start and a definite attempt to outperform the appellation. Real nerve. GV? (JR)
Drink 2011 – 2014
£105 per case ib Flint
Quite rich and heavy. Not bad but a bit foot dragging. (JR)
Drink 2012 – 2016
£250 per case ib Flint
Liquorice and scent with low-key sweetness. Charming but far from knockout. Some nice minerality. (JR)
Drink 2012 – 2016
£205 per case of 6 ib Flint
Heavy relatively speaking. Quite rich and ripe. No-one would be disappointed but I’m not sure they’d be thrilled by this. (JR)
Drink 2013 – 2017
£205 per case of 6 ib Flint

DOMAINE DANIEL BARRAUD

Quite a rich nose and real definition on the palate. Lots of minerals and interest. Manages not to be too fat. Well done! Quite long. I went back and tasted this again after their richer wines and still think it’s the best value of the lot because of the freshness... GV (JR)
Drink 2011 – 2014
£96 per case ib Lea & Sandeman
Some minerality on the nose. Sweet start but not quite as alert and refreshing as the (cooler?) Vergisson wine. Edgy finish but some structure. (JR)
Drink 2012 – 2015
£114 per case ib Lea & Sandeman
This wine is bottled by Daniel and Martin Barraud but actually carries the name Julien Barraud on the front label (Julien took over management of the domaine from his father in 2006). Very big and opulent on the nose. Round and sweet and polished and easy – very forward. (JR)
Drink 2011 – 2014
£117 per case ib Lea & Sandeman
Lightly honeyed nose. Then some green notes. Still quite youthful. Still a little aggressive, but full, rich and sweet and a bit heavy. Good to come across a white Maconnais with a future. (JR)
Drink 2012 – 2015
£93 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley; £180 per case ib Lea & Sandeman
Sweet and scented. Intense and rather headily floral though without too much acidity. Drink this herbal number quite soon. (JR)
Drink 2012 – 2015
£192 per case ib Lea & Sandeman

DOMAINE ROGER BELLAND

A little soupy and very ripe. Flattering but without much structure. (JR)
Drink 2015 – 2019
£120 per case ib OW Loeb
Rather raw and coarse. Sweet and round – almost more like a liqueur though with some new oak influence. Fine but not really exciting. Rather sickly finish. (JR)
Drink 2014 – 2018
£164 per case, or £169 for 6 magnums ib OW Loeb
Mid crimson. Very evolved nose. Then sweet. Not much structure for a Pommard. Bit soupy. Grainy light tannins on the end only. (JR)
Drink 2015 – 2020
£244 per case ib OW Loeb

DOMAINE GHISLAINE BARTHOD
Great confidence....