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Burgundy 2009 A-D

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Our tasting notes are – phew – now just about complete. For a guide to our comprehensive coverage of this exceptional vintage, see Burgundy 2009 – a guide.

DOMAINE STÉPHANE ALADAME

Dom Stéphane Aladame, Découverte Premier Cru 2009 Montagny

Precision on the nose – which actually came as rather a relief after the softness of a range of Louis Michel’s Chablis. Fresh and refreshing. Light and very pretty but not the sort for an en primeur wine. Hint of nuttiness. (JR)
Drink
2011
2013
£105 per case ib OW Loeb
16

BERTRAND AMBROISE

Bertrand Ambroise 2009 St-Romain

Honeyed quince. A little bit oxidative in style. Heavy on the palate. Lots of flavour but not the flavour I’m looking for. (JH)
Drink
2012
2013
£186 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
14.5

Bertrand Ambroise 2009 Vosne-Romanée

Sweet cherry compote aroma. Fresh but tannins are rather drying. Cherry fruit struggles to assert itself. (JH)
Drink
2012
2016
£348 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
15

Bertrand Ambroise, Grand Cru 2009 Corton-Charlemagne

Ripe lemon – lemon linctus. The sample is warm but even so this seems rather lacking in energy. It’s fresh and creamy but a bit coarse. (JH)
Drink
2013
2019
£636 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
15.5

DOMAINE AMIOT-SERVELLE

Dom Amiot-Servelle 2009 Chambolle-Musigny

Pinkish cherry colour. Dusty, almost leafy note over the red cherry fruit. Sweet oak spice on the mid palate. Fine dry tannins, upright and pretty austere at the moment. (JH)
Drink
2014
2021
£432 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
16.5

DOMAINE ARLAUD
Bit simple and dull.

Dom Arlaud, Roncevie 2009 Bourgogne

Light crimson. Light, jujube nose. Easy and simple. A bit too light to be of great interest. (JR)
Drink
2012
2014
£112 per case ib Flint
15

Dom Arlaud 2009 Morey-St-Denis

Solid and a little rustic on the nose. Light and sweet. Simple. (JR)
Drink
2014
2017
£250 per case ib Flint
15.5

Dom Arlaud, Grand Cru 2009 Charmes-Chambertin

Rich, round nose delivers pleasure in spades. By a mile the best wine from this producer I have tasted so far – though pretty sweet and forward. Almost sickly... (JR)
Drink
2013
2020
£295 per case of 6, £305 per 3 magnums, £225 per one jeroboam ib Flint
16.5

DOMAINE DE L'ARLOT
Worrying – shame because I liked the last guy I met from here (chez Corney & Barrow).

Dom de l'Arlot, Clos Arlot Premier Cru 2009 Nuits-St-Georges

Heady and hedonistic (do we need the word hedonistic for wines like this?) Loose and open and beguiling. But not refreshing. The first wine I have come across where I have actively worried about the low acid level. (JR)
Drink
2015
2018
£465 per case ib Goedhuis
15.5

DOMAINE ARNOUX-LACHAUD

Dom Arnoux-Lachaux 2009 Bourgogne

Comfortably relaxed fruity nose. Lots of easy sweetness. Pretty GV (JR)
Drink
2012
2015
£70 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
16

Dom Arnoux-Lachaux 2009 Chambolle-Musigny

Pretty rich and flashy on the nose. Very sweet start. Rather softer and less convincing than usual at this domaine. Lacks refreshment. Too sweet and soft. (JR)
Drink
2015
2019
£360 per case ib Armit; £POA per case ib Lay & Wheeler
15.5

Dom Arnoux-Lachaux, Les Chaumes Premier Cru 2009 Vosne-Romanée

Light crimson. Good focus and energy. Some real race and class. Dry finish so still a bit awkward. These three Arnoux-Lachaux wines at Lay & Wheeler I found a little disappointing. (JR)
Drink
2017
2023
£285 per case of 6 ib Armit; £POA per case ib Lay & Wheeler
16.5

DOMAINE DENIS BACHELET
Very solid and lovely – good distinctiveness. A dream year. Age of vines a factor here.

Dom Denis Bachelet 2009 Bourgogne

Deep crimson. Savoury and even a little leathery. Quite juicy and very interesting and complex already on the nose. This should make lively bottle! (JR)
Drink
2013
2018
16.5

Dom Denis Bachelet 2009 Côte de Nuits-Villages

Brochon, Queue de Hareng, near Perrières de Fixin. Dark and rich-looking. Substantial stuff – very rich and jolly – quite spicy and round. Lovely stuff that should not be too expensive. Real energy. Perhaps not for the real long term. Very good drainage on this steep plot. GV? (JR)
Drink
2013
2018
17

Dom Denis Bachelet, Vieilles Vignes 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin

75 years but being replaced one by one. Mostly in the north of the village. Very dark. Very incense nose with real excitement and density. Very rich and supple and gorgeous. Just lovely – you would never think it was ‘just’ a village wine. Light calcaire pebbly slope – quite like Charmes. To be bottled after full moon in March. Very small bunches. So long and rich. Great reverberant stuff. (JR)
Drink
2016
2025
17.5

Dom Denis Bachelet, Les Corbeaux Premier Cru 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin

Just next to Mazis and Fonteny. A deep soil with some clay and marl but quite a cool terroir. Especially good in dry years.
Very rich and sumptuous on the nose – all black fruits. Intense and round and less lifted than the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes. Big and bold. Quite a bit of fine tannin on the finish. Best to wait. (JR)
Drink
2018
2028
17 +

Dom Denis Bachelet, Grand Cru 2009 Charmes-Chambertin

Deep purplish crimson. Lift and playful note on the great big body of mass. Polished and shiny. Lots to enjoy here although it is more ambitious and less superficially charming than many a Charmes. Very well done. Great intensity. On the limit with Mazoyères in very shallow soils quite high up. Very expansive finish. (JR)
Drink
2018
2030
18

DOMAINE JEAN-CLAUDE BACHELET


DOMAINE BACHELET-MONNOT

Dom Bachelet-Monnot, Grand Cru 2009 Bâtard-Montrachet

Tense and positively juddering elbows. Not the most assured Grand Cru but made with great ambition and intent. Very racy. Lemon oil. (JR)
Drink
2015
2022
£1,120 per case, or £1,150 per case of 6 magnums ib Justerini & Brooks
17

DOMAINE BALLOT-MILLOT

Dom Ballot-Millot 2009 Bourgogne

Fresh lime flavours. Sweet start and a definite attempt to outperform the appellation. Real nerve. GV? (JR)
Drink
2011
2014
£105 per case ib Flint
16

DOMAINE DANIEL BARRAUD

Dom Daniel et Martine Barraud, La Roche 2009 Mâcon-Vergisson

Quite a rich nose and real definition on the palate. Lots of minerals and interest. Manages not to be too fat. Well done! Quite long. I went back and tasted this again after their richer wines and still think it’s the best value of the lot because of the freshness... GV (JR)
Drink
2011
2014
£96 per case ib Lea & Sandeman
16

Dom Julien Barraud, Alliance-Vergisson 2009 Pouilly-Fuissé

This wine is bottled by Daniel and Martin Barraud but actually carries the name Julien Barraud on the front label (Julien took over management of the domaine from his father in 2006). Very big and opulent on the nose. Round and sweet and polished and easy – very forward. (JR)
Drink
2011
2014
£117 per case ib Lea & Sandeman
16

Dom Daniel et Martine Barraud, La Roche 2009 Pouilly-Fuissé

Lightly honeyed nose. Then some green notes. Still quite youthful. Still a little aggressive, but full, rich and sweet and a bit heavy. Good to come across a white Maconnais with a future. (JR)
Drink
2012
2015
£93 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley; £180 per case ib Lea & Sandeman
15.5 +

DOMAINE ROGER BELLAND

Dom Roger Belland, Les Gravières Premier Cru 2009 Santenay

Rather raw and coarse. Sweet and round – almost more like a liqueur though with some new oak influence. Fine but not really exciting. Rather sickly finish. (JR)
Drink
2014
2018
£164 per case, or £169 for 6 magnums ib OW Loeb
15

Dom Roger Belland, Les Cras 2009 Pommard

Mid crimson. Very evolved nose. Then sweet. Not much structure for a Pommard. Bit soupy. Grainy light tannins on the end only. (JR)
Drink
2015
2020
£244 per case ib OW Loeb
15

DOMAINE GHISLAINE BARTHOD
Great...