Restaurants
Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team.
Restaurant reviews
Nick on restaurants
Doppo – Italian restaurant or not?
A gem for wine lovers in London’s Soho. Just part of its giant wine list (temporarily stolen) is shown above. The inherently Italian pleasures of my lunch at Doppo on...
Nick Lander
Sunday 8 March 2026
• 1 min read
More restaurant reviews
Nick on restaurants
Nick reports on a global dining trend. Above, diners at Hawksmoor in London. My frequent conversations with our restaurateur son...
Nick on restaurants
Nick denies an accusation frequently levelled at restaurant critics. And revisits an old favourite. Those of us who write about...
Nick on restaurants
A winning combination in North London beguiles Nick, who seems to have amused the trio behind it. Above, left to...
Nick on restaurants
Nick highlights something the Brits lack but the French have in spades – and it’s not French cuisine.
This week...
Nick on restaurants
Three more reasons to head to this charming city in southern Spain.
As we left Confitería La Campana, which first...
Nick on restaurants
Head to the far south of Spain for atmospheric and inexpensive hospitality. Above, the Bar Las Teresas in the old...
Nick on restaurants
What is it about Saturday lunch? A tale of one enjoyed at Mayfair’s latest opening. Very fancy!
It has been...
Nick on restaurants
An annual round-up of gastronomic pleasure. Above, the German island of Sylt which provided Nick with an excess of it...
Nick on restaurants
A daughter revives memories of her parents’ much-loved Chinese restaurants.
The surname Poon has long associations with the world of...
Nick on restaurants
A new restaurant in one of central London’s busiest fast-food nuclei is strongly Spanish-influenced.
Brave the crowds on Regent Street...
Free for all
Nick pays tribute to two notable forces in British food, curtailed far too early. Skye Gyngell is pictured above.
To...
Nick on restaurants
In this second and final look at restaurants’ evolution over the last quarter-century, Nick examines menus and wine lists. See...
Nick on restaurants
During the 25 years of JancisRobinson.com, what’s been happening in hospitality, so important for wine sales and consumption? All pictures...
Wine news in 5
Plus a proposal for updated rules in the EU’s wine sector and a catch-up on a new(ish) category for tawny...
Nick on restaurants
A new, Michelin two-star restaurant and, across the square in Sonoma, a much more relaxed establishment. Nick loved both.
Enclos...
Free for all
Jancis grapples with a five-kilo wine list and tours the cellars that supply it. See also The renovated Tour d’Argent...