Burgundy 2023 – H–J

Négociant bottling from several vineyards. Old vines. Cask/tank sample.
Really quite opulent! Well done! Really quite exciting. GV (JR)

Own vines, 1.3 ha, planted in 2018 in Moncey. First vintage 2022. Cask sample.
Bags of character. Open, apple-skin character. Almost dangerously open. (JR)

Négociant bottling. Long-standing purchase from a grower named on the label: Nicolas Ruelle. But some growers don’t want to be named … Cask/tank sample.
Lively and rich. More throbbing than most white St-Romains. (JR)

Négociant bottling. Certified organic. Cask/tank sample.
Rich and sweet. Very tingling. Really rather gorgeous. (JR)

Own vines. All Gevrey, fruit he used to buy from 2009. Some by the sports Complexe and some by Brochon. Certified organic. Cask sample.
A little raw on the nose. Tight and suave but not that wonderful. Chewy finish. (JR)

Négociant bottling. High elevation. Cold, white clay, west-facing site. Certified organic. Cask sample.
Rich fruit spreads across the palate. Smart! GV (JR)

Négociant bottling. High, north-facing site. Cask sample.
A little gamey but with lots of character. Bit introvert at this stage with a hint of liquorice. (JR)

Multiple parcels of which 50% are owned by Haisma. Cask sample.
Sweet and almost animal! But firm and solid. Long and rich. (JR)

Own vines. Certified organic. Cask sample.
Rich and sweet from old vines. Lively and very fresh. (JR)

Négociant bottling. Cask sample.
Sweet fruit and violet notes in this blend from five different parcels. Firm on the end. (JR)

Négociant bottling. First vintage 2014. Cask sample.
Lively fruit with cinnamon notes. Dry finish. A very concentrated wine but you’d have to love those very spicy notes. (JR)

Own vines. A plot next to Ruchottes with neighbours Dugat-Py and Bruno Clair. Certified organic. Cask sample.
Rich and really gorgeous but awfully expensive. Long and reverberant. (JH)

Citrus and stony, green-fruited aroma. Marked herbal note. Very crisp but the acidity is balanced by a gentle creamy texture. All present and correct, straightforward, well-made Chablis. (JH)

A little riper than their straight Chablis. More citrus though there is a light herbal note. Deeper on the palate but not such a huge step up from the Chablis. (JH)

Open aroma of citrus and green fruits plus a stony Chablis-typical overlay. Creamy texture balances the fruit but this doesn't have the intensity I would expect from a grand cru. (JH)

Vineyards 50 km south of Chablis. Vegan.
Subtle, fresh lemon-citrus aroma. Light stone-dust note. Lots of fruit depth for the appellation and the vintage. Rounded, fresh. Very respectable. (JH)

Vegan. A more obviously mineral/stony aroma compared with the Bourgogne. Surprisingly soft and creamy on the palate, though not lacking freshness. Builds to greater length as you sip. (JH)

Available from March 2025. Vegan.
The aroma is both subtle and complex: herbal citrus and a light minerally impression. Even a hint of pears. Firm and gentle at the same time, with a long, fresh, slightly chewy finish. (JH)

Hélène Jaeger-Defaix's family has vineyards in Rully. Vegan. Cask sample.
Such a contrast with the Chablis Côte de Léchet just tasted. Richer, riper, with a touch of spice. Creamy with a light grip from the lees. Generous, succulent, long, really long. (JH)