The eighth of our alphabetically organised tasting articles collating reviews of all the young burgundy 2023s tasted by Matthew in the Côte d’Or and by Jancis, Julia and Tam in London. Jon Wyand captured the image above of Claudie Jobard during London's Burgundy Week. See also this guide to our coverage of this vintage in Burgundy.
These 138 tasting notes are grouped alphabetically by producer (sur)name and within those groups are ordered whites before reds, ascending from generic through village, premiers and grands crus.
Mark Haisma (Gilly-lès-Citeaux)
Mark Haisma 2023 Bourgogne Aligoté
Négociant bottling from several vineyards. Old vines. Cask/tank sample.
Really quite opulent! Well done! Really quite exciting. GV (JR)
Mark Haisma 2023 Mâcon-Villages
Own vines, 1.3 ha, planted in 2018 in Moncey. First vintage 2022. Cask sample.
Bags of character. Open, apple-skin character. Almost dangerously open. (JR)
Mark Haisma, Le Jarron 2023 St-Romain
Négociant bottling. Long-standing purchase from a grower named on the label: Nicolas Ruelle. But some growers don’t want to be named … Cask/tank sample.
Lively and rich. More throbbing than most white St-Romains. (JR)
Mark Haisma, En Caradeux Premier Cru 2023 Pernand-Vergelesses
Négociant bottling. Certified organic. Cask/tank sample.
Rich and sweet. Very tingling. Really rather gorgeous. (JR)
Mark Haisma Pinot Noir 2023 Bourgogne
Own vines. All Gevrey, fruit he used to buy from 2009. Some by the sports Complexe and some by Brochon. Certified organic. Cask sample.
A little raw on the nose. Tight and suave but not that wonderful. Chewy finish. (JR)
Mark Haisma, Les Pins 2023 Pernand-Vergelesses
Négociant bottling. High elevation. Cold, white clay, west-facing site. Certified organic. Cask sample.
Rich fruit spreads across the palate. Smart! GV (JR)
Mark Haisma, La Cave 2023 Volnay
Négociant bottling. High, north-facing site. Cask sample.
A little gamey but with lots of character. Bit introvert at this stage with a hint of liquorice. (JR)
Mark Haisma 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
Multiple parcels of which 50% are owned by Haisma. Cask sample.
Sweet and almost animal! But firm and solid. Long and rich. (JR)
Mark Haisma, En Pallud 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
Own vines. Certified organic. Cask sample.
Rich and sweet from old vines. Lively and very fresh. (JR)
Mark Haisma 2023 Chambolle-Musigny
Négociant bottling. Cask sample.
Sweet fruit and violet notes in this blend from five different parcels. Firm on the end. (JR)
Mark Haisma, Clos des Arvelets Premier Cru 2023 Pommard
Négociant bottling. First vintage 2014. Cask sample.
Lively fruit with cinnamon notes. Dry finish. A very concentrated wine but you’d have to love those very spicy notes. (JR)
Mark Haisma, Fonteny Premier Cru 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
Own vines. A plot next to Ruchottes with neighbours Dugat-Py and Bruno Clair. Certified organic. Cask sample.
Rich and really gorgeous but awfully expensive. Long and reverberant. (JH)
Domaine des Hâtes, Maison des Hâtes (Chablis)
Dom des Hâtes 2023 Chablis
Citrus and stony, green-fruited aroma. Marked herbal note. Very crisp but the acidity is balanced by a gentle creamy texture. All present and correct, straightforward, well-made Chablis. (JH)
Dom des Hâtes, Beauroy Premier Cru 2023 Chablis
A little riper than their straight Chablis. More citrus though there is a light herbal note. Deeper on the palate but not such a huge step up from the Chablis. (JH)
13%Maison des Hâtes, Bougros 2023 Chablis Grand Cru
Open aroma of citrus and green fruits plus a stony Chablis-typical overlay. Creamy texture balances the fruit but this doesn't have the intensity I would expect from a grand cru. (JH)
Les Hauts de Milly (Milly)
Les Hauts de Milly Chardonnay 2023 Bourgogne
Vineyards 50 km south of Chablis. Vegan.
Subtle, fresh lemon-citrus aroma. Light stone-dust note. Lots of fruit depth for the appellation and the vintage. Rounded, fresh. Very respectable. (JH)
Les Hauts de Milly 2023 Chablis
Vegan. A more obviously mineral/stony aroma compared with the Bourgogne. Surprisingly soft and creamy on the palate, though not lacking freshness. Builds to greater length as you sip. (JH)
12.5%Les Hauts de Milly, Côte de Léchet Premier Cru 2023 Chablis
Available from March 2025. Vegan.
The aroma is both subtle and complex: herbal citrus and a light minerally impression. Even a hint of pears. Firm and gentle at the same time, with a long, fresh, slightly chewy finish. (JH)
Les Hauts de Milly, Montpalais Premier Cru 2023 Rully
Hélène Jaeger-Defaix's family has vineyards in Rully. Vegan. Cask sample.
Such a contrast with the Chablis Côte de Léchet just tasted. Richer, riper, with a touch of spice. Creamy with a light grip from the lees. Generous, succulent, long, really long. (JH)