Mandrolisai part 1 – clinging to ancient DNA
Wednesday, 6 December 2023
Walter takes us into the heart of Sardinia to witness the rebirth of this very traditional appellation and profile three of its leading lights: Bentu Luna, Fradiles and I Garagisti di Sorgono. Pictured above, Emanuela Flore of Bentu Luna. Come back tomorrow for part 2, a review of wines from other local producers.
Deep in central Sardinia on a high plateau amid a largely unspoilt and wild environment the monumental, centenarian vines of the tiny DOC of Mandrolisai are facing a double whammy: extirpation and falling foul of the law. ‘The ancient vineyards in Mandrolisai are increasingly low-density due...
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