Red bordeaux from the 1982 vintage has reached that daunting stage when it is so valuable that many of those who have it in their cellars feel they can't afford to drink it. I've observed a sort of rabbit in the headlights reaction as collectors dither over whether to sell or open those precious wooden boxes. Certainly with the exception of professional tastings such as the fascinating judgement of the 1982s organised in Los Angeles in 2002 by Bipin Desai and various charity events, I rarely have the chance to taste more than one 1982 at a time.
Last night...